Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Best Waterfowl Guns for 2012

While the “year of the duck” became the year of hard luck for many fowlers in parts of the country that were despicably warm still in midwinter, it was not for lack of proper arsenal that the birds weren’t falling. Like next year’s duck counts will no doubt turn out, this year’s crop of waterfowl guns offers a lot of carryover from the year prior, including some ultra-light autoloaders, guns with wicked new paint jobs, a killer Lego kit of a Mossberg pump and an insurrection of well-made guns that won’t kill your kid’s college fund.

Stealing the shotgun show at SHOT was the resurrection of an all-time great autoloader, Browning’s venerable humpback A-5, a legacy gun that is back and better-looking than ever. Now if we can just get a cold winter next year to kick us down some of these birds at a reasonable time in the season

Benelli Performance Shop Super Black Eagle II

While not all-new by design but specifically for waterfowl hunters comes what is essentially a Super Black Eagle ll with a tuning kit and aftermarket mods. Polished guts in the gun and a custom trigger are the start, followed by Rob Roberts Custom Triple Threat chokes. Each gun is test fired, and features a Crio barrel with a polished forcing cone to provide consistent patterns while reducing recoil. Also new from Benelli are Super Black Eagle ll models featuring Mossy Oak Duck Blind Camo, and a new M2 in 20 gauge with Realtree MAX 4 Camo; a first for a 20 gauge from Benelli in waterfowl specific camo.
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Beretta A400 Xtreme OPTIFADE

After running this gun all season and piling up snow geese knee-deep with it last week in Arkansas, it’s hard to argue that the Beretta A400 Xtreme is not at the pinnacle of duck and goose gun engineering. I love this gun, from it’s proven rotating bolt head and gas cycling that functions with about any load made, to its softest-kicking status thanks to the Kickoff recoil dampening system. Kickoff uses hydraulics to prevent muzzle rise and to keep hard hitting loads from removing your fillings. With just a quarter-turn the B-Lock forend cap pops off, allowing total takedown in seconds. The gun premiered last year in Realtree MAX 4, and reappears for 2012 with Gore OPTIFADE, a cool sort of honeycomb-mee.

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Monday, August 27, 2012

Gun Stocks: Part IV

Reprinted from Chuck Hawks, for your information.


Light weight is often cited as a benefit of synthetic stocks, and laminated stocks are often criticized as being heavy. But in fact, most synthetic, laminated, and solid wood stocks weigh about the same when built to the same pattern. There is little advantage to very light stocks in any case, as rifles need a certain amount of weight to swing smoothly, balance correctly, and limit recoil. If a stock is made too light, it simply has to be weighted with lead or some other material so that correct balance, swing, and recoil control are maintained.

Synthetic stocks do have some significant drawbacks. One of the most important is that they are flexible, particularly the forearm of one-piece injection molded stocks. They lack the natural rigidity of wood, so if a hunter shoots with a sling, for instance, the forearm can flex, alter the bedding of the barrel, and change the point of impact of the bullet. Even changing the strength or angle of one's grip, or using a rest, can change the point of impact of a rifle with an injection molded stock. Laid-up fiberglass stocks with unidirectional fibers (not the common "chopper gun" type of construction with short random direction fibers) are stiffer than injection molded stocks and generally more accurate.
Synthetics can warp in hot weather and freeze in cold weather. In extremely cold temperatures injection molded stocks become so brittle that they can literally shatter. In very hot weather black synthetic stocks can become literally too hot to handle with bare hands. But the legend of their strength and climate resistance persists.

Nor has anyone in the shooting press, so far as I know, questioned the necessity for a waterproof stock.Few hunters regularly take their rifles swimming. I, for example, have been hunting in rainy Western Oregon since 1964 without a bit of water damage to my various rifles, all of which wear walnut stocks. The factory finish on a walnut stock is usually all the weather protection required.

Everyone in the industry knows these things; they just don't want to address them. The lack of stiffness in most synthetic stocks is a serious problem because it degrades the accuracy of the rifle. To help rectify that problem, some gun makers offer synthetic stocks (at extra cost) made of exotic materials with aluminum or other internal reinforcement.

The Weatherby Accumark stock, for example, is made of a combination of Aramid, graphite unidirectional fibers, and fiberglass molded around an aluminum bedding and forearm insert. Such stocks are stiff and strong, but much more expensive than simple synthetic stocks.

Other issues are the clammy feel (especially when cold and or wet) of synthetics, and the fact that they are not very attractive. Most synthetic stocks look like they were cut out of the inner bottom of a cheap fiberglass boat. When combined with the crude matte metal finish used on so many rifles with synthetic stocks (another cost cutting measure sold to consumers as an anti-reflection measure), the result can be a firearm without any aesthetically redeeming virtue or even a shred of individuality.
Factory made rifles are equipped with stocks designed to fit the average person from about 5' 8" to about 6' in height. However, there is some variation between brands and sometimes between different models of the same brand. The conformation of the individual shooter's upper body (arm length, shoulder size, chest size, etc.) and the shape of the face (long, wide, flat, big nose, high cheekbones, etc.) will determine which stock fits best. The very tall or long armed shooter may require a longer than average length of pull, shooters with thin faces generally find a thicker comb more comfortable, and so on.

Two stocks with identical length of pull, drop at comb, and drop at heel from different manufacturers may feel quite different in practice. The thing to do is to search until you find the rifle stock that fits best.

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Monday, August 20, 2012

Gun Stock: Part III

Article reprinted from Chuck Hawks, for your information.

Modern classic stocks are basically designed for use with telescopic sights, but rifles so stocked often come with iron sights, which must remain useable. So the stock is somewhat of a compromise in that its drop at comb is intended to favor optical sights but still accommodate iron sights.

While any stock may be made from a variety of materials, the usual choices are solid wood, laminated wood, and synthetics. Solid wood stocks are usually made of walnut, birch, or beech and occasionally of maple, myrtle, or mahogany. Laminated wood stocks are made of layers of hardwood or walnut and hardwood glued together under pressure. Synthetic stocks are usually made of an injection molded plastic or a molded fiberglass shell filled with plastic foam. All of these materials can be made into functional gunstocks.

The best wood for solid wood stocks is generally considered to be walnut. A satisfactory stock must have certain properties, and walnut fills the bill better than other woods. For example, stock wood should be reasonably hard but not brittle, stiff, dense without being excessively heavy, take checkering well, and have attractive figure and grain. The thin shell European walnuts are particularly durable and attractive.

Unfortunately, because of its beauty, walnut is also in high demand for furniture, and the big bucks are in furniture rather than in gunstocks.gun companies simply cannot out bid the furniture makers for nicely figured walnut. So fancy walnut stocks are becoming a custom proposition, priced out of reach of the average shooter.

A nicely figured walnut stock is a thing of beauty. It is also very functional. Walnut is stiff and resists side loads (like a shooting sling). It handles the battering from recoil well. It feels good to the touch, particularly in wet or cold weather. It can be touched-up or refinished if marred. Walnut is a superior gunstock material, but it is becoming more and more expensive even in plain grades. It is to the advantage of the major gun companies to move shooters away from walnut and into less expensive synthetic stocks. I have learned the hard way to insist on genuine walnut stocks on all of my hunting rifles.

Other, cheaper, solid wood stocks are made from various hardwoods, primarily beech. Beech is a light colored wood with little grain or character, so it is usually stained to resemble walnut. Such a stock is satisfactory in use, but nicks and scratches reveal the white wood under the walnut finish. These cannot be touched-up, as could a genuine walnut stock, and soon the "walnut finished hardwood" stock starts to look really tacky. I have owned such stocks once or twice, but never again.
Laminated wood stocks are actually the strongest and most stable of all stocks. Functionally, they are superior to both solid walnut and the synthetics. If laminated from decent woods and well finished they can be quite attractive. They are cheaper than solid walnut stocks because they are made from smaller slices of wood, most of which cost less than good walnut. The grain in the various layers of wood is designed to run in different directions and cancels out any tendency of the stock to warp. When properly glued under pressure and sealed laminated stocks are immensely strong and warp resistant, and virtually impervious to the elements. Laminated stocks are generally regarded as the stiffest and most accurate type of stock.

One of the first production hunting rifles with a laminated stock was the Remington Model 600M bolt action carbine. I ordered one as soon as they were announced. The stock was laminated beech and walnut with a clear RKW finish, and it proved to be attractive and much more rigid and accurate than synthetic stocks. The laminated hardwood stock is probably the best and most attractive alternative to a solid walnut stock.

Synthetic stocks, so far as I know, began in the U.S. with Savage/Stevens rifles and shotguns during the Second World War, when all of the walnut was going into military rifles. These early synthetic stocks were made of wood grained plastic, and proved satisfactory. I once owned a Stevens .22/.410 combination gun with such a stock.

The first really successful commercial rifle with a synthetic stock was the Remington Nylon 66 autoloading .22 rifle. As the name implies, the stock was molded of DuPont Zytel nylon, a very tough plastic material. (DuPont owned Remington in those days.) The Nylon 66 was followed by a lever action version called the Nylon 76 and tubular and box magazine bolt action rifles named the Nylon 10 and 11. I owned all of these rifles at one time. Back in the early to mid 1960's I was experimenting with synthetic stocked rifles. Unfortunately, I found that their benefits were outweighed by their disadvantages.

Although the Remington Nylon series rifles are long discontinued, the idea resurfaced as walnut became more and more expensive, no doubt spurred by the U.S. military's adoption of the M-16 infantry rifle with its black plastic stock. This time, with a chance to both increase the bottom line and hold down suggested retail prices, the major gun manufacturers spared no effort to successfully market their synthetic stocks, touting their ruggedness and weather resistant qualities.

No one seemed to ask just how often the average shooter actually broke a wooden stock, or what would happen to the rest of the rifle if it were subjected to loads severe enough to snap the stock. (Ever seen a rifle run over by a tank or tossed off a cliff?) Or even if synthetic stocks were actually harder to break than a wooden stock. It turns out that the common injection molded stocks used by most of the big gun companies are not significently harder to break than a walnut stock, and much easier to break than a laminated wood stock.

Other advantages of synthetic stocks include the fact that an elaborate and extensive checkering pattern can be molded in at practically no expense, they can be made any color desired, and they flex so much that they tend to moderate the effect of heavy recoil. (Or so I have been told--this is something I have not experienced first hand.) The biggest advantage of synthetic stocks remains that they cost the big gun companies much less than a wooden stock. (Allegedly between $5 and $10 per stock as I write this.) This allows the company to make a few pennies profit to pay their lawyers and keeps down the retail price to the customer.

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Monday, August 13, 2012

Gun Stock: Part II

Gun Stock Part II:

But all of these features can be over emphasized to the point of grotesqueness. The Winslow rifles, now mercifully defunct, were a good example. They featured bizarre stocks with exaggerated Monte Carlo combs, roll over cheek pieces and tightly hooked, flaring pistol grips. They looked like a Weatherby reflected in a fun house mirror, a clear triumph of style over function. They were decorated with a profusion of inlays, multiple line spacers, and stock carving. Fortunately, such excessive, non-functional styles tend to run their course and disappear.

European style stocks seem to favor gentle convex curves (rather than straight lines) from comb to heel and between the pistol grip and toe of the buttstock. Cheek-pieces, if present, are frequently of the "pancake" type. They occasionally favor the full length Mannlicher style forearm, which I personally like, intended to protect the barrel in mountainous terrain.

Whatever the forearm style, it tends to be slender and tapered. Modern Euro-style stocks usually incorporate a Weatherby-derived pistol grip. Buttplates are usually hard rubber, black plastic, or occasionally buffalo horn, and recoil pads are used for hard kicking calibers. They often (but not always) eschew contrasting forearm tips and pistol grip caps, and favor simple checkering patterns. The finish may be glossy or satin. European style rifles may or may not come with iron sights, and the dimensions of their stocks must reflect this.

Jack O'Connor once wrote that aesthetically pleasing stock design used straight lines and curves that are segments of circles. I am inclined to agree with him, at least to a considerable extent. I also believe that form should follow function. For instance, I do not find the bellied curves used in the European style buttstock attractive, and I can find no functional reason for such shapes.

By far the most popular style today (at least in North America) is the modern classic stock. The modern classic tends toward a straight comb with little or no drop at heel, a pistol grip with a medium curve, and a rounded or pear shaped forearm. Checkering patters are usually borderless, in diamond point or fleur-de-lis styles. Pistol grip caps and forearm tip are common and they are usually black and without contrasting spacers. The buttplate is usually metal, black plastic, or solid rubber. Stock finish is usually satin (if sprayed on) or traditional oiled walnut. The overall look is restrained. Fans of other styles may call it plain. Like anything else, the understated look can be overdone, in this case to the point of blandness.

Like a well executed California style stock, the modern classic is very functional. The straight comb line with minimum drop at heel is designed to align the eye with an optical sight and to transmit recoil in a straight line to the shoulder, minimizing muzzle rise. The medium pistol grip is designed to provide good control without cramping the hand. The rounded forearm is designed to fit the natural curve of the hand that grips it.

The oiled finish, if present, makes it easy to touch-up nicks and scratches by simply rubbing more oil into the affected area. An oil finished stock seldom needs to be completely refinished, and is the easiest kind to refinish when necessary.

Reprinted from an article by Chuck Hawks, for your information. Click Here to see more from Sportsmans Gun Room.

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

The Rifle Stock: Part I

The Rifle Stock

Here is a part of a great article by  Chuck Hawks for your information.

It is interesting that in the United States rifle stock design has received more attention than shotgun stock design. Many more custom rifle stocks are built every year for US shooters than custom shotgun stocks, even though shotgun stocks are far more critical to hitting the target.

Rifle stock design is a controversial subject, and the source of much disagreement among gun buffs. There are several schools of thought as to material, decoration, finish, and most of all the shape of rifle stocks.

Most of the controversy swirls around the stocks of bolt action rifles. Lever action and single shot rifles tend towards what I call the Classical (Ruger No. 1A) and Western (Browning 1885 High Wall, Winchester Model 94 Traditional) styles, which are functional and seem appropriate to their purpose.

Bolt action stocks tend toward one of three styles, which I call the European (Steyr-Mannlicher Classic, CZ 550 Lux), Modern Classic (Winchester Model 70 Featherweight, Remington Model 700 BDL, and Ruger Model 77R Mark II), and California (Weatherby Mark V Deluxe). Naturally, there are variations on and combinations of these basic styles, but the rifle models in parenthesis are reasonable examples of the three main styles.

All of these styles can be attractive if properly executed, and all can be functional. And, of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Aesthetic merit is always a difficult question to resolve.

Roy Weatherby spawned the California school of stock design (the Weatherby Company is headquartered in California), which is epitomized by his Mark V Deluxe rifle. Key features of a Weatherby stock include the signature Monte Carlo comb that slants down toward the front (to align the eye with a telescopic sight and keep the comb away from the cheek bone during recoil), a cheek-piece and a small amount of cast off (a bend of the buttstock away from the face [as seen from above] to make the rifle faster and more comfortable to mount and also to help align the eye with the scope), a forearm tapered in three dimensions with a flat bottom (to provide a good grip and a shape amenable for use over a rest), and a pistol grip with a slight flare at the bottom (to aid in good control and to prevent the hand from slipping during recoil). Mark V rifles also have a generous butt pad area and come with a top quality Pachmayr recoil pad. All of these are functional features, particularly for the powerful magnum rifles in which Weatherby specializes. Many of them have been incorporated, at least to some extent, in most other modern stock designs.

Rifles with California style stocks are seldom supplied with iron sights, so the stock is designed expressly for the higher line of sight of an optical sight. These stocks usually come with a durable high gloss finish that shows off the grain of the select walnut to beautiful advantage. (Models with dull synthetic stocks are also available.) Forearm and pistol grip caps of darker contrasting woods, sometimes set off by lighter line spacers, are common decorative touches.

Weatherby Deluxe rifles have a maplewood diamond inlay in the rosewood pistol grip cap. Checkering patterns are inclined to be both fairly extensive in coverage and fancy in execution. Some conservative shooters object to these features, and some even claim that the showy stocks scare off game, but I have never seen any evidence of this. Certainly Weatherby rifles and their owners have enjoyed great success in game fields all over the world, taking an inordinate number of record trophies. And I, for one, find the Weatherby Mark V Deluxe to be a flamboyant but handsome rifle.

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Wednesday, July 11, 2012

How to Buy Ammunition

Here are some good things to think about when buying ammunition.

 1
Start by choosing the right size ammo for your gun. A .22 bullet will fire in a .22 pistol or rifle, but the letters that follow, .22L and .22LR, signify the .22 long barrel and the .22 long rifle. The same holds true for an "S" that follows the caliber. A .22S is for the short barrel. By using the correct size, you will reduce the incidence of jamming.

2
Choose a solid casing. For target shooting, a combination-cased bullet is fine but for hunting purposes, you'll want a Full Metal Jacket (FMJ) bullet designed for maximum penetration. FMJs are also used in small military arms and do not expand upon impact.

3
Purchase hollow-tip ammunition for maximum spread upon impact. With a hole in the center, usually made of lead, the bullet will expand quickly upon impact, creating massive internal damage. In case of an accidental discharge inside, this bullet will stop within a wall instead of passing into an adjacent room.

4
Buy match-grade ammunition for shooting competitions. Manufactured with an extremely small level of variation, match-grade ammunition is more precise when fired. Due to the stringent production standards, it is also more expensive. Professional competition shooters use match-grade bullets.

5
Read an online evaluation before you buy. If you're still confused about how to buy ammunition, study the results of extensive tests that determine cartridge velocity and accuracy by brand. Different guns will have different results and correct sighting in your weapon is imperative to your accuracy

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Monday, June 25, 2012

Buying a Used Handgun

This is a great article by Chuck Hawks

The common reasons to purchase a used handgun are to save money or acquire a model no longer in production. For example, Some gun owners own several used Colt Diamondback revolvers in .22 LR and .38 Special, all of which were purchased after the Diamondback was discontinued.Guns hold their value very well, so if you later decide to trade or sell a used gun you should be able to get pretty much what you paid for it, assuming you paid a fair price.

This is very important to those of us who have bought and sold a fair number of firearms for  personal use. Before you buy, check the price and condition of any used firearm in Fjestad's Blue Book of Gun Values, which is the accepted reference for pricing.

Buy from someone that you trust. If you are not an experienced used gun buyer, perhaps the most important thing is to buy from someone you trust. A reputable gun shop is not looking to rip you off, they are looking for repeat customers and they should have already inspected the gun for condition and safety before putting it on the rack. They should be willing and able to give you an honest appraisal of the gun.

Most will allow you to return a used gun for a refund or exchange within a reasonable period of time (like a week, not a month!) if it doesn't meet normal standards of accuracy and function. Obviously, a handgun being returned must come back in the same condition it left the store.

Always test any pistol for function and accuracy with factory loads. If there is a problem, you want to be sure that reloaded ammunition cannot be blamed..

Buying through the mail or Internet. For the novice used gun buyer is to avoid doing so. Don't buy any firearm you cannot inspect first. Not that there is a problem with most mail order sales, but should there be a problem you are entirely dependent of the good offices of a stranger. It is always better to deal face to face with the seller.

How to check the condition of a used handgun--general points. Before handling any firearm, always open the action and verify that both the chamber and the magazine are empty. Remove the magazine if possible. Every time a firearm changes hands it should be cleared.

1. Look at the overall condition of the gun. Notice the condition of the bluing and the overall wear. Look for rust pitting on external metal surfaces. Are the grips in good condition? All screws should be tight and the screw heads un-marred. The gun doesn't have to be perfect in every area, but it should show care rather than neglect. A pistol could be rough on the outside, yet perfect on the inside, but the chances are that an owner who didn't care for the external parts of a gun also didn't care for the parts you can't see.

2. The size, shape and angle of the grip should fit your hand. When you bring the gun to eye level your master eye should be looking straight down on the barrel. The gun should not be tipped up or down. Having a gun that points naturally is especially important for a pistol that might be used for protection.

3. Look carefully down the external length of the barrel to see that it looks straight and there are no subtle bulges. Don't buy any handgun if you suspect that the barrel (or the cylinder of a revolver) has been bulged, no matter how slightly, or if it is not straight. Also look at the crown of the muzzle--it should not be dinged.

4. Note the position of the rear sight on guns with adjustable sights. If it is way off to one side, suspect some sort of problem and ask to shoot the gun to verify accuracy before purchase.

5. Check the condition of the grips. There should not be any splits, chips, or cracks in the grips, particularly if you are looking at a discontinued model (for which it may be hard to find replacement grips). Scratches in the grip finish, worn checkering, and tiny nicks in the grips will not affect the gun's function, but should lower the price.As the screws holding wood grips to the grip frame are tightened they will tend to pull deeper and deeper into the wood. Check to see that they are not about to pull clear through. This is particularly common with Ruger single action (SA) revolvers, but applies to most guns with wooden grip panels.

6. Get permission to dry fire the gun and check the trigger pull. Dry firing will not hurt most centerfire handguns, but it is still a good idea to use snap caps to protect the firing pin.Whatever the trigger pull weight, it should be consistent from shot to shot. If it feels like a stock factory trigger (too heavy with some creep), fine, you can get it adjusted later. If it feels crisp and breaks at 2.5-3 pounds it has probably been worked on or adjusted. This is great if done properly, as it will save you some money, but make sure that the piece will not jar off.To test this, get permission to bump the butt of the cocked handgun against some firm but padded surface. The gun should not fire. Push against the fully cocked hammer (if the pistol has one) with your thumb--it should not slip out of its notch; reject the gun if it does.

7. Check the inside of the barrel (and the chambers of a revolver's cylinder). If the barrel is dirty, ask that it be cleaned or for permission to clean it yourself. Do not oil the barrel after cleaning, and be suspicious of any barrel that has been oiled. The shine from the oil can hide minor barrel imperfections and pitting.Once the barrel is reasonably clean, dry, and oil free, open the action or remove the barrel and look into it from both ends. Use a bore light. Hopefully it will be clean and bright with sharp rifling. A slight amount of rust or pitting inside the barrel (or the cylinder of a revolver) will ordinarily not seriously degrade the performance of a handgun, unless it is a target pistol, but it should lower the used price.

This is the first of two blogs on Buying a Used handgun, check out next weeks blog. Click HERE to learn more about guns at Sportsmans un Room.com.

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Guidelines for the First Time Handgun Purchase

If this is your first time purchasing a handgun. It can be a very confusing path to follow, but is also very rewarding once you realize that your purchase fits you well.  This is meant as a quick guide to become familiar with the basics of handguns, the different reasons why many people own handguns, and the pros/cons of different firearms.

Things that should be considered in a handgun is who is going to be using the handgun, physical capabilities of the shooter, as well as the handgun’s usage. Example uses are:

• recreation /training firearm
 • home defense firearm
 • hunting firearm
 • personal defense firearm

The followings are broad generalizations.
 Ultimately only you can determine if a handgun is right for you

Dedicated recreational/training handguns traditionally have the following traits:
 • highly visible sights
 • cheap, low caliber ammunition
 • low recoil

Dedicated home defense handguns usually are:
 • .38 special or 9mm caliber or larger
 • larger ammunition capacity
 • easy to shoot accurately and quickly

Dedicated self-defense handguns vary greatly, but these traits are fairly common:
 • fit the shooter’s hand well
 • easy to acquire sights and shoot quickly and accurately
 • function well with hollow point ammunition
 • easy to maintain/clean
 • highly reliable

Hunting handguns are much more open, but the following standards should be considered. Check your local state hunting regulations for specifics before you purchase. Examples for state of Ohio are:

 • 5 inch minimum length barrel
 • straight walled (no bottle neck) ammunition
 • .357 caliber or larger

Alot to think about. Find a good gun professional and let them help you pick the proper hand gun for your needs. Check out Sportsmans Gun Room in Penryn California for their expert advice.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

How to Choose The Correct Rifle for You

First, determine your current level of experience. If you are brand new to shooting, and just want a rifle to learn with, a .22 caliber is probably the best. And it comes with much recommendation that you make that .22 a Ruger 10/22, as it is very user friendly, easy to field strip, and is extremely modular with aftermarket parts.

Second:

Determine what you will be using the rifle for. Hunting rifles come in many calibers. And there is an old saying from colonial days that ".30 is a squirrel gun, .40 is a rabbit gun, .50 is a deer gun and .60 is a bear gun." Of course, weapons have become a lot more powerful since then, so that formula doesn’t really apply. But on a similar format, here is a good standard for today. A .22 is a squirrel gun, .22 magnum is a rabbit gun, .30 or 7.62 is a deer gun and .300 magnum is a elk, moose and bear gun

If the rifle you are looking for is for defensive purposes, there are also many options. The most obvious of these being the assault type weapons. Although these are not true assault weapons, A good place to start is the AR-15 layout. It is very user friendly, and very accurate. But it tends to be unreliable when irregularly maintained and the .223 cartridge can be too much over penetration for too little stopping power. They also tend to be expensive.

Another choice is the AK-47. It is much cheaper, it's 7.62x39 cartridge packs more punch, and it is much more reliable. But it is much less accurate, and many of the features are difficult to manipulate when compared to the AR-15 series, most notably the safety and magazine release.

 For apartment defense or other situations where you anticipate a lot of potential for collateral damage, some great choices are the Beretta Cx4 Storm chambered for 9mm and the FN P90 chambered for 5.7x28mm. Both of these are good choices, as they are very short and easy to handle indoors, and the rounds are much less powerful, and when using hollow point or frangible ammo, they will most likely not go through walls.

Third:

Decide how much you want to spend. Sporting rifles come in many prices depending on the manufacturer, caliber, and quality of wood, barrel and engraving if desired.  The best way to find a good rifle that fits your needs is to find a reliable professional gun shop. They should know the differences and guide you to the right affordable choice.

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Tuesday, May 22, 2012

What is Gun Caliber?

In the gun industry, including firearms, caliber (sometimes spelled calibre) is the approximate internal diameter of the barrel in relation to the diameter of the projectile (bullet or shell) used in it.

In a rifled barrel, the distance is measured between opposing lands or grooves; groove measurements are common in cartridge designations originating in the United States, while land measurements are more common elsewhere in the world. It is important to performance that a bullet should closely match the groove diameter of a barrel to ensure a good seal. When the barrel diameter is given in inches, the abbreviation "cal" is used in place of "inches." For example, a small bore rifle with a diameter of 0.22 inch is a .22 cal; however, the decimal point is generally dropped when spoken, making it "twenty-two caliber" or a "two-two caliber". Calibers of firearms can be referred to in millimeters, as in a "caliber of eighty-eight millimeters" (88 mm) or "a hundred and five-millimeter caliber gun" (often abbreviated as "105 mm gun").

While modern cartridges and cartridge firearms are generally referred to by the cartridge name, they are still lumped together based on bore diameter. For example, a firearm might be described as a ".30 caliber rifle", which could be any of a wide range of cartridges using a roughly .30 inch projectile; or a ".22 rimfire", referring to any rimfire cartridge using a .22 caliber projectile.

In some contexts, e.g. guns aboard a warship, "caliber" is used to describe the barrel length as multiples of the bore diameter. A "5-inch 50 caliber" gun has a bore diameter of 5 inches (127 mm) and a barrel length of 50 times 5 inches = 250 inches (6.35 m).

What about Shotguns?

Shotguns are classed according to gauge, a related expression. The gauge of a shotgun refers to how many lead spheres the diameter of the bore would equal a pound. In the case of a 12-gauge shotgun, it would take twelve spheres the size of the shotgun's bore to equal a pound. A numerically larger gauge indicates a smaller barrel: a 20-gauge shotgun requires more spheres to equal a pound; therefore, its barrel is smaller than the 12 gauge. This metric is used in Russia as "caliber number": e.g., "shotgun of the twelve caliber." The sixteenth caliber is known as "lordly" (Russian: барский). While shotgun bores can be expressed in calibers (the .410 bore shotgun is in fact a caliber measure of .41 caliber [11 mm]), the nature of shotshells is such that the barrel diameter often varies significantly down the length of the shotgun barrel, with various levels of choke and backboring.

Information taken from Wikipedia